4 October

After barely making it home from our 2024 flight from Europe, we hired a driver to take us to the airport. He showed up on time and dropped us off right at check-in at San Francisco International.

We decided to bring a sandwich on the plane, just in case the airplane food was disgusting (which it was). Since we were in San Francisco, of course we wanted a sandwich from Boudin Bakery. We had plenty of time, except that we didn’t realize it was on the other side of the airport. We walked 45 minutes EACH WAY to the bakery and back to our gate, which left me no time to browse the bookstores we passed. (But it was worth it.)

We booked an extra seat (middle), so we had the whole row to ourselves. Good thing we did, because my flight comfort gear took up a lot of space! Are we becoming high-maintenance travelers?

5 October

We arrived in Rome around 2:00 pm but had to wait quite a while for our luggage. Tony and Karyn were already there. Our driver threatened to leave without us, but we made it just in time.

We checked into our hotel and headed out for dinner. We ended up at a shopping mall near our hotel. We called it an early night so we could start fresh for the next day’s adventures.

6 October

We flew in a day early so we could do a little sightseeing on our own. We took a €45 Uber from the hotel to the Colosseum. We didn’t have tickets to go inside, but walking around the ancient structure was impressive enough. From there, we walked to the Basilica of St. John Lateran, the Papal Basilica of St. Mary Major, the Holy Stairs (Scala Santa), and Mussolini’s Balcony. Between adventures, we stopped for a delicious lunch of Saltimbocca, Spaghetti Pomodoro, and Spaghetti Carbonara, and, of course, gelato. We also got a lesson in personal-item safety as the waiter moved our bags away from the street to prevent theft.

Altogether, we walked approximately seven miles. Paid public toilets cost €1.50.

My favorite observations of the day occurred at St. Mary Major. A memorial beneath the main floor depicts a larger-than-life statue of Pope Pius IX kneeling in adoration before a crystal-and-silver reliquary containing fragments of wood from the Holy Manger in Bethlehem. My photographs do it no justice. It was magnificent and so unique.

St. Mary Major is one of the most beautiful churches I’ve ever been in, with ornate art, statues, and gold gilding everywhere. It is almost overwhelming. But it also holds a simple, barren chapel that contains the tomb of Pope Francis, who died in 2025. The only adornment is a simple cross on the wall. Its simplicity was striking, a true memorial to the man.

Back at home, Jameson sent a video telling us about a pasta he read about in school that day. He wrote down the name so he could tell us to try it. CLICK HERE TO SEE VIDEO.

Later that evening, we checked in at the tour desk, picked up our pilgrimage gear, and joined the other pilgrims for our first dinner together. We sat with a group from All Saints Church in Miami, and they were a lot of fun. They later gained a reputation as the party group. They were the first to write in my “Words of Wisdom” journal.

This day’s prayer intentions were left at St. John Lateran.

7 October

We ate a continental breakfast at the hotel with Scott and Chrissa Fernandes, who were traveling with Chris Stefanick’s group from Colorado.

Our first stop was the Vatican, where we waited in a long line to enter St. Peter’s Square for the Papal Audience. I had printed postcards ahead of time, filled them out, and was ready to mail them. As we were in line, Leroy bought postage, and we licked each stamp and placed it on the card. Once inside, we found ourselves on the railing waiting for the Pope right in front of the Vatican Post Office. Leroy went inside to mail the cards, only to discover they did not have enough postage. While we waited outside and guarded our spot, Leroy licked more stamps to add to the US postcards! He really took one for the team. Stuart and Deb received theirs before we left Italy, but the US cards did not arrive until two weeks later.

Seeing the Pope was a thrill. I had a brand-new zucchetto in my pocket, but he didn’t turn down our lane, so we never got close enough to trade. I’ll save it for the next time.

After the Audience, we grabbed some food, this time individual pizzas. Afterward, Tony and I waited out on the street while Leroy and Karyn got some coffee, and I noticed a man waving to me. He had a red name badge, so I assumed he was in our group. As I approached him, I realized it was Patrick Madrid, a popular Catholic author, radio host, and apologist. He inquired about our pilgrimage and explained he was with a different group. Tony quickly ran and alerted Karyn, and she made it over for a photograph too.

We left Rome for Assisi. Leroy slept most of the way, but the beautiful countryside kept my attention. Each villa had its own vineyard and olive orchard. We had Fr. Dave Pivonka on our trip, and I really enjoyed him. We also met our bus guide, Matteo, who really struggled with language and organizational skills. Fortunately, Fr. Dave filled in the gaps.

We drove straight to Assisi, where we celebrated our first Mass at St. Pietro’s Church. This was Francis and Clare’s church. Assisi is known as the “City of Saints,” with over thirty declared saints connected to Assisi. The city has more than 40 churches and chapels. We left the day’s prayer intentions at this church

We had dinner back at the new hotel in Assisi. We sat with expats living in Doha, Qatar. He is a retired Army Colonel and now serves as a military strategist for a Qatari general at the US Embassy.

8 October

This was our first full day in Assisi. We started in the new part known as Assisi Valley, where we visited the Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli, built to enclose the Porziuncola, the humble chapel St. Francis restored when the Franciscan Order was established, and the place where St. Francis died at the age of 44.

St. Francis was not a priest, only a deacon. He felt he didn’t deserve the priesthood. To show the world that he had the pope’s permission and authority to preach, he was told to shave his head in a tonsure.

Once, St. Francis was in a period of doubt, and he threw himself onto a thorny bush as corporal punishment. The bush transformed into a thornless rose variety, leaving him unharmed. The five-petal roses still exist today and are grown in a courtyard outside the Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli.

The Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli, built to enclose the Porziuncola in Assisi, is considered the world’s “most indulgent” church. (More people go there to fulfill their indulgence obligations than any other church in the world. It was built at the same time as the Papal Basilica of St. Mary Major in Rome. In an apparition, Our Lady declared that she preferred the little church, which greatly upset the pope at the time.

We then headed up the hill to old-town Assisi, where we toured the Basilica of Santa Chiara, where St. Clare is buried. It also contains the Dan Damiano crucifix that spoke to St. Francis. “Frances, rebuild my church.”

We had lunch on our own in the main square, and I ordered the Tagliatelle with Ragu on Jameson’s recommendation, and it was delicious.

After lunch, we visited Santa Maria Maggiore, the Sanctuary of Renunciation, and venerated the tomb of St. Carlo Acutis. We were also privileged to see a recently excavated and renovated area of the Bishop’s Palace, where St. Francis stripped off his clothing and renounced his family to serve God. We walked through the same “Door of Decision” St. Francis used to enter the Bishop’s Palace.

From there, we trekked to the Basilica of St. Francis, begun in 1228. Magnificent frescoes line this church, and St. Francis is buried in the crypt below. We left our prayer intentions near St. Francis’ tomb in this church

We met again for Mass at St. Pietro’s and then walked back up the hill for a group dinner at a beautiful Italian restaurant. We sat with the Alamos, the Fernandes, a father-daughter duo from Indianapolis and Charlotte, NC, and two other North Carolina women. We had front-row seats for the musical entertainment from John Paul Van Arx, who works for Fr. Dave Pivonka at Steubenville.

Back at the hotel, Leroy decided to go for a swim, but he had to pay separate admission to the pool and sauna, plus a swim cap. I will keep it with my zucchetto.

9 October

We started our day in the Assisi Valley at the Sanctuary of Rivotorto, where St. Francis and his first group of brothers lived when he founded the Order.

We passed by a military cemetery on our way up the hill to Assisi. The guide explained that the German officer assigned as Commandant of Assisi during World War II was a devout Catholic. His name was Colonel Valentin Müller. He was a trained physician, and he worked with the mayor of Assisi and the clergy to have Assisi declared a “hospital” city under the Geneva Convention, which prevented bombing and military occupation. He also ordered a peaceful withdrawal at the end of the war, ignoring Hitler’s “Scorched Earth” policy.

We then traveled to Assisi for some time on our own. We walked up the hill to the Cathedral of San Rufino where St. Francis and St. Clare were baptized. We left this day’s prayer intentions in the small chapel here, which contains a relic of St. Carlo Acutis’ heart.

We stopped for another delicious lunch and found a beautiful watercolor paint shop on a side street leading to the main square. Leroy found a fruit-filled (apricot) cookie and devoured it.

We then rejoined our bus group and took small vans up the hill to the Hermitage of the Carceri on Mount Subasio. That is where St. Francis and his companions would go to the caves for retreat. I skipped the cave tour because of claustrophobia. (I wasn’t alone.)

We returned to St. Pietro’s for Mass, then went to dinner at the hotel. That night, we sat with a young woman who lived near Portland, Oregon, but had recently quit her nursing job to travel through Europe for six weeks. I also asked Chris Stefanick to record a video for Stephanie Pizzirulli. CLICK HERE TO SEE VIDEO.

10 October

Leroy woke up early and watched the Central Catholic football game live on his iPad. We also had time for a FaceTime with the kids, who had exciting news to share. They were the top sellers for the Chatom Carnival raffle tickets, Jameson placed second in the poster contest, and Charlotte was awarded two roles in the Nutcracker: teddy bear and lamb. (Thirty years after her mom played a lamb with the same company.) They are tracking our travels around the world.

We had a two-hour bus ride to LaVerna. It was a beautiful area, with many tobacco fields. LaVerna is where St. Francis received the stigmata after asking God to show him the depth of His love. Our tour guide was terrible and rushed through everything. I wasn’t too disappointed that the tour ended early. It was nice to have so much time to ourselves. Leroy got an espresso, and I had the most delicious and dense hot chocolate I have ever tasted. We left this day’s prayer intentions at the Basilica di Santa Marin Assunta.

We traveled back to Assisi for Mass. Before it started, we walked up the hill to an olive oil shop Tony and Karyn knew from a previous trip. We did a tasting and ordered several bottles of olive oil and balsamic vinegar to be shipped home. It arrived about a week later.

After Mass at St. Pietro’s, we regrouped at Assisi dal Ristorante Carfagna. As the sun set, we had a magnificent view of Assisi's old town. There, we enjoyed a delicious five-course meal. (We had discarded the disgusting box lunch we were offered in LaVerna, so we were hungry!) We sat with Brother Ezekiel Dumis, a Franciscan Friar of the Renewal in New York City, where Fr. Groeschel lived and worked.

11 October

This was our last day in Assisi, and we had a free morning to explore and shop. It was the day before St. Carlo Acutis’ feast day, so it was jam-packed with people. We headed to the Basilica of St. Francis and waited for Tony and Karyn as they went to confession. We ate a salami sandwich for lunch, then sprinted up the hill for some last-minute shopping. We purchased Holy Family sets for the kids and lots of other trinkets and gifts. I went back to the watercolor store, and we also made stops at the leather shop and a boutique for new hats for Leroy. Leroy indulged in a traditional cannoli and looked like a true Italian.

We rejoined the group around 1:00 pm and headed down the hill to the Church of San Damiano, where St. Clare spent most of her life. We also saw the door where she stood with the monstrance to keep the band of mercenaries away from her sisters. We left this day's prayer intentions in this old, sacred church.

St. Clare wanted to follow St. Francis. On her eighteenth birthday, also Palm Sunday, the bishop told her to follow her heart, and she fled her noble family to join St. Francis in the valley. Francis expected her because the bishop told him she would be coming. Fifteen days later, her sister, St. Agnes, followed her example. A noble uncle attempted to retrieve the girls, but Clare made it to the altar before her uncle could reach her. She was granted sanctuary. Her sister, however, was caught by the hair and captured, but when they attempted to return her to her family home, she became incredibly heavy and seven grown men could not lift her to put her on the horse. Her uncle saw this as a sign from God and left her in her sister’s care. The girls’ mother and a niece eventually joined them in the order St. Clare founded.

St. Clare was the first woman to write a rule for a religious order. When sent to Rome for approval, the pope said it was too strict, but St. Clare would not modify the rules. It was approved only two days before her death. The Poor Clares are cloistered and pray for those who do not pray.

We celebrated our last group Mass in Assisi back again at St. Pietro’s. Tony and Karyn were happy to see their former priest from Dalhart in attendance. After a group photo, we headed back to the hotel for dinner. That night, we sat with a couple from British Columbia. After hiking up the hill from San Damiano to the bus, the wife found a tick on her arm. She also told a hilarious story about an auto-correct issue with a letter to her grandma.

12 October

We had to have our luggage out of our room by 6:00 am for our transfer back to Rome. I strategically packed old or ill-fitting clothing for this trip so I could leave it behind, and my strategy worked really well. Leroy packed all the souvenirs we bought, including his two new hats. We left the old clothes in the room, and during our bus ride to Rome, our tour guide, Matteo, received a message from the hotel asking if this was a mistake. (Including a picture of the shopping bag full of clothes.)

Once in Rome, we went to Mass at St. Michael the Archangel with Fr. Joe Lehman as the celebrant. This beautiful church is only steps away from St. Peter’s Square.

We had an issue with our Vatican Museum tour tickets. Leroy and I had different tickets, so we had to use separate entrances, and we got split up before heading up the hill to line up. During all of the commotion, a man in our group was pickpocketed. It was incredibly frustrating.

Once we got inside, I reunited with Leroy, and we were assigned new headphones, but mine wouldn’t stay on my ears. I had a terrible time hearing the tour guide. It didn’t help that she had a very thick Italian accent. With so many people, it was chaos, and I quickly felt overwhelmed. (It didn’t help that I hadn’t had any water that day because I was concerned about bathroom access.)

As we walked along, a lady approached our tour guide and asked to join. She was alone and wanted to tag along. The tour guide agreed and gave her a headset. I immediately noticed her Star of David necklace and complimented her. She responded kindly and showed me the cross underneath. She explained she was a Messianic Jew. She made it clear she wasn’t a typical “stiff-necked and hard-hearted” Jew. She was short, stalky, and snarky, so I latched onto her right away. I knew God sent her to keep me entertained, and she did!

Our tour guide took us outside to explain what we would see inside the Sistine Chapel. She explained that she had to do it then because speaking was not permitted inside. (The heat and moisture from talking ruin the artwork.) She also told us everyone would have to be silent and that it would be a peaceful experience, and she emphasized how many security officers enforced the rules. We then set off again following the “Sistine Chapel This Way” signs up and down, left and right. At one point, we were stopped in a holding area filled with beautiful art. My little Jewish friend (whom I now think of as Miriam) and I had a lovely conversation about Old Testament scenes depicted in the paintings. Soon we were moving again. We stepped back outside and began to ascend the stairs to St. Peter’s Basilica. I stopped the group and said, “Wait, when do we see the Sistine Chapel?” and everyone explained that we had just left it.

I was inside the Sistine Chapel and didn’t even realize it.

A very nice lady in our group tried to console me by explaining that many people are underwhelmed when they see it. I explained that I was waiting for the silence, for the promised peace that I was earning, but never experienced. I felt like the worst Catholic ever.

However, walking into the Basilica of St. Peter’s changed everything. The sheer size is impressive, but the interior’s magnificence is hard to describe. It literally took my breath away. I immediately spotted the Pietà and got as close as I could. (If I had missed that too, I probably would have asked for a refund.) We then visited the tomb of St. John Paul II and the Adoration Chapel (where we left the day’s prayer intentions) before heading downstairs to the crypt to see more tombs, including Pope Benedict and St. Peter’s. The Basilica lived up to all of the hype, and I felt (mostly) redeemed.

On the walk back to meet the bus, I hit a wall. The significance of the experience (and lack thereof), plus dehydration and no food, really took a toll, and I had to check out for a while. I am so grateful for Leroy’s tender care. He really stepped up and cared for me before I came to myself.

Water with electrolytes, a good dinner, and some rest revived me a bit. This was our last time together as a group. We said our goodbyes and went to our hotel for the night. Then God surprised me with another gift. In our room was a big bathtub! I cried tears of joy and relief. That was the best hot bath ever.

13 October

Our transfer wasn’t scheduled to leave the hotel until 11:00 am, so we slept in. I took another hot bath while Leroy went to breakfast. I missed the chance to say goodbye to Tony and Karyn, who had to leave before us.

‍We had a simple transfer to the airport. The driver practically hugged Leroy when he offered a tip, since tipping isn’t customary in Italy. He really appreciated the generosity.

We arrived at the airport early (by choice), so we walked around a lot and browsed. We also enjoyed one last delicious Italian meal before boarding. Leroy had the best pizza of the entire trip, and I had another dish of Spaghetti Pomodoro.

Fellow pilgrims from Santa Clara were on our flight too, and we chatted with them before boarding. Other than leaving a little later than scheduled, the flight was uneventful, and the food was much better this time.

We breezed through customs with our Global Entry, and the driver pulled up shortly after we got our luggage. He welcomed us back, said he understood we were probably tired, and invited us to sleep. I think Leroy and I were both unconscious before he hit the San Mateo Bridge.

When we arrived in Hilmar, we woke up, dragged our suitcases into the house, and crawled into bed.

Italy Pilgrimage October 2026