Day 0 - 4/4/24 - Thursday

SFO to Warsaw

You guys! We made it to the airport. The reality of this dream is beginning to hit me. Most of it seems surreal, including how well-organized we are with our luggage. I don’t think I have ever been this efficient. We checked two medium-sized bags and are carrying two packs (one each) and one suitcase for overhead.

I received a set of AirTags for Christmas, and this is the first time I’ve used them. Watching our luggage transfer from the ticket counter to the gates has been fun. Right now, they are sitting at Gate G6 (which was our original departure gate.) They’ve switched us to G13, but our luggage hasn’t moved. I’m confident they will figure it out before the plane leaves. Well, I’m reasonably confident.

We arrived at the airport super early. (No surprise.) And so we had plenty of time to peruse every bookstore between security and our gate. Leroy was patient and let me take my time. (Traveling authors often stop at these stores to sign their books while waiting for their flights.) I didn’t find ANY signed books. It was disappointing. Seeing so many of our Book Club selections on the shelves was fun. (I also got a few ideas for upcoming months.)

We will fly from San Francisco to Frankfurt, Germany, switch planes and go from Frankfurt to Warsaw, Poland. The seating selection shows no one is assigned to the seat next to us. Say a little prayer that it remains empty.

As I write this, a young girl is near speaking on the telephone in GERMAN! Every minute, this trip gets better and better. She’s wearing a “Carmel California” sweatshirt, so I’m going to assume she is going home.

I will try to sleep as much as possible on this flight, as we will arrive in Poland midday and hit the ground running. (On the way home, I will try to stay awake so I can sleep when we get home.

Day 1 - 4/5/24 - Friday

Warsaw, Poland

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria (Hotel)

As we approached Frankfurt Airport, I was struck by the beauty of the land beneath. There were acres and acres of lush, hilly farmland surrounded by clumps of forest. There were railroad tracks throughout, and I couldn’t help but think of the millions of prisoners who were transported to their deaths on some of those same lines. As we approached the city, the landscape changed dramatically. My eyes were drawn to the Stalinist Architecture of the Soviet-era apartment blocks. (Known in Poland and The Czech Republic as “Rabbit Boxes.”) This was not like home.

Our flights were long but uneventful. The good news is that our luggage made it, too. (I really enjoyed tracking it with AirTags.) We flew from San Francisco to Frankfurt, switched planes and arrived in Warsaw about 2:30 p.m. I wasn't too impressed with the German people at the Frankfurt Airport, but the Polish are friendly so far.

We were exhausted but did a little sightseeing after checking in. We are staying in the heart of Warsaw, just a few blocks from the Old Town.

We have only been here for five hours, and I've already prayed for you in three different churches. (All of them are within walking distance of our hotel.)

Our first stop was Holy Cross Church. This was the biggest of the churches. The Polish composer Frédéric Chopin's heart is buried in one of the interior columns.

Our second stop was at The Church of St. Joseph of the Visitationists and, finally, The Church of The Assumption of the Virgin Mary and St. Joseph, also known as The Carmelite Church. (Mass was happening at The Carmelite Church, so I didn't take any interior shots, but we'll return.) Each one was magnificent, but the most impressive thing was that they were all blocks away from each other.

Note: I've used the English versions of the names here because I can neither spell nor pronounce them in Polish.

After prayers, we walked to the edge of the original portion of Warsaw and found the monument for the border of the Warsaw Ghetto. We will see more of it tomorrow, but being in that area was remarkable.

Curtis and Linda (my brother and sister-in-law) have arrived in Warsaw (via Dallas and London) and are currently en route to the hotel. We are going to eat a meal and head to bed.

Day 2 - 4/6/24 - Saturday

Warsaw, Poland

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria (Hotel)

Tour – Panoramic Poland

It was a beautiful day in Warsaw. We started with breakfast at the hotel, where we met Curtis and Linda. We then boarded a bus for a guided tour of Warsaw, including many of the government, historical and political sites, the Jewish Quarter, and the Warsaw Ghetto area. This city was virtually leveled in World War II, but not by aerial bombing. Most of the damage was done in direct combat against the Soviets and the Germans. After the war, Warsaw was under Communist rule, and the buildings were replaced in the Russian style, including the Communist block housing. Once they were able to re-establish a democracy (1989), the Poles rebuilt the city to match the buildings that were destroyed. (Even replacing the original streets.) All the buildings are relatively new, but match what they would have looked like before the war. Warsaw is still recovering from the wounds of communism. In defiance, they have renamed the street in front of the Russian Embassy “Aleją Ofiar Rosyjskiej Agresji,” which means “Victims of Russian Aggression Avenue.”

It's no surprise St. Pope John Paul II is a big deal in Poland. There are statues, monuments and memorials everywhere. The guide explained what he meant to the Polish people. It was his visit to Warsaw in 1979 that inspired the Polish people to reclaim their heritage, their cities, their country and their faith. It would take another ten years before the fall of Communism in this region. The exact location (in Victory Square) of St. John Paul II’s homily is marked by a large white cross and is directly across the street from our hotel.

The Jewish Quarter and Ghetto area contains many monuments not only to the Jewish uprisings and victims but also to give a glimpse of what the Jewish community was like before the German occupation. In 1940, there were 300,000 Jews locked in the Warsaw Ghetto. They were sustained by only an average of 170 calories per day. There are fewer than 1,000 Jews left in Warsaw today. More than 30% of the Polish Jews died in the Ghettos during World War II. Just like the rest of the city, there are few buildings or markers that remain. But the ones that do have significant meaning, including the execution wall, which is riddled with bullet holes.

We ate lunch (including pierogi) in the bustling city center of Old Town. Many people were out today (Saturday), but they closed the streets to vehicle traffic, so getting around is still manageable. Walking back to the hotel, we saw a church with an Epiphany blessing (like our house) and the guard changing at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.

Leroy and I attended Mass at Holy Cross Church on Saturday night, our usual Mass time. We realized (during Mass) that it was not the Sunday readings. We were at the last daily Mass. Afterward, we walked down the street to the other church where Mass was beginning, but it too was daily Mass. So, we'll get up early tomorrow morning and go to 6:00 am Mass before boarding the bus at 7:45 am to head to Krakow. (Prayers today and more to come tomorrow.)

There are so many things I could tell you, but I would spend all night writing (and I need some sleep). So, I've decided to list just some of my observations.

1.    The Polish people we've encountered are rather shy. The wait staff and hotel employees are efficient, accommodating, and polite, but they are almost embarrassed if you compliment or give them much attention. (Like asking questions, which I always Ike to do when I travel.) When the waitress today asked me if I wanted the pierogi boiled or fried, I asked her what her preference and she almost fainted.

2.    The Polish people do not walk around with cell phones in their faces like we see at home. I can't remember seeing anyone on the streets using a cell phone—even teenagers. We've seen many groups of 20-somethings gathering in groups of 6-10 (male and female), and no one is on their phone. They talk to each other (and listen) like we did in the old days.

It's been fun checking in with the kids each day. Jameson keeps his globe nearby and always knows what time it is in Poland.

Day 3 - 4/7/24 - Sunday

Warsaw, Poland

DIVINE MERCY SUNDAY

Tour - Jasna Góra Monastery

Transfer to Kraków

Sheraton Grand Kraków

I would need more than one or two blog posts to describe our adventures today. Forgive me for being so brief. We are exhausted and need to get some sleep. (I will probably do some follow-up blog posts about these two locations with more details and descriptions.)

Today was our transfer day from Warsaw to Krakow (by bus.) About halfway between these big cities is the Jasna Góra Monastery in Częstochowa. This sacred shrine is the icon's location, depicting the Mother of God with the Christ Child, known as the Black Madonna of Częstochowa or Our Lady of Częstochowa. It is the most significant Catholic pilgrimage site in all of Poland. The priest, Fr. Roman, said, "Warsaw is the political capital, Krakow is the cultural capital, and Częstochowa is the spiritual capital.” The icon is veiled and unveiled on a regular, daily schedule to mimic the hours a reigning queen would be available for an audience.

For those who sent prayer requests, I hope you felt them today.

After arriving in Krakow, we immediately sought tickets to Oskar Schindler's enamelware factory. These are difficult to get, but we snagged tickets and headed over. The building is original, but the interior was converted into three museum floors. There are images, artifacts and stories of not only the Schindler's List Jews but also Polish life, Nazi occupation, the concentration camps and World War II in general. I recently re-watched the movie, and I'm so glad I did. I did learn one thing. Schindler not only employed the Jewish workers from the Krakow Ghetto, he also employed many Polish citizens and kept them housed and fed in difficult economic times. I love learning new things.

I completely forgot to tell you about one of the best parts of yesterday. While we were at the Jewish Museum, I bought my first Mezuzah. (Deuteronomy 6:4-9 and Numbers 12: 37-41) For my Catholic friends, listen to Fr. Mike's Bible In A Year, Day 57. This acquisition was one of my primary goals for this trip. It's so cool!

Day 4 - 4/8/24 - Monday

Kraków, Poland

Sheraton Grand Kraków

Tour – Historic Kraków

Oskar Schindler’s Factory

We slept well last night and started a little later this morning, so we're feeling good! After breakfast, we did a bus tour around Krakow, including the Krakow Ghetto. We also saw the famous "Eagle Pharmacy." When the Nazis chose the area for the ghetto, there was a family-owned pharmacy within the boundary. The family was asked to relocate, but they wanted to stay. They were Catholic and wanted to help the Jews in any way they could. They convinced the Nazis it would be a good idea and paid off them as well. The pharmacy became the location for educated Jews to gather for philosophical discussions. It was a safe place where these (mostly) men could escape the horrors around them and engage with others in the civilized manner they were used to. It also gave the family access to the ghetto, where they witnessed and documented the atrocities. After the war, the father wrote a book describing everything inside the walls.

During World War II, ration cards were issued so that citizens could acquire food. The quantity of food allowed was based on daily calorie counts. The Germans were allowed 2,000, the Polish people 700 and the Jews were only given 400 calories. There are bronze chairs located throughout the ghetto. Each chair represents 1,000 Krakow Jews who lost their lives. There were over 100 synagogues in Krakow before World War II. Today, there are only seven.

We toured the exterior of Wawel Castle (right next to our hotel) and learned about the area’s history. In the middle of the city square is St. Mary’s Basilica. Each day, at noon, the top altarpiece, “The Altar of the Dormition of the Mother of God,” is opened. There are 120 Roman Catholic churches in Krakow today.

After a lunch of traditional Polish food (and getting pooped on by a colossal pigeon), we walked back to the hotel with our new British friends, Stuart and Debbie.

We rested in the room for a few hours (Leroy got in a swim) and then attended Mass at St. Mary's. The organ was magnificent, and the cantor was extraordinary.

We met Curtis and Linda at an Italian restaurant for a delicious meal and then walked along the Vistula River on our way back to the hotel.

Someone just asked Leroy if I was in my element, and the answer is an enthusiastic yes. If you're wondering if I've corrected the tour guides, the answer is another yes. But it's only happened twice so far. (But it's only Day 4!)

Day 5 - 4/9/24 - Tuesday

Kraków, Poland

Oświęcim, Poland

Leroy’s 57th Birthday

Tour – Auschwitz & Birkenau

I can hardly believe the grace around me. I get to experience two of my favorite things, history and faith, and I celebrate my favorite person on his 57th birthday. (Yes, Leroy.) Before telling you about our adventures, I have to stop and thank Leroy for making all of my dreams come true—even the usual dreams of visiting Nazi Germany and concentration camps. Today is so much more than just a Bucket List Day for me.

We started the day by attending Mass at St. Mary’s in Kraków's main square. (More candles and more prayers.) Today’s tour was the ultimate purpose of our pilgrimage to Poland. I have looked forward to this day since I was a young girl. We had the privilege of visiting the Auschwitz & Birkenau Concentration and Extermination camps. Auschwitz was established in 1940 and liberated (by the Russian Army) in January 1945. My mind is still spinning from the information we learned and the places we visited. We had an excellent guide at these locations, and I captured several stunning images. The local people in this area have a strong sense of responsibility to pass along the story so others never forget. Every Polish student must visit an extermination camp when they are around 14-15 years old. Also, it is illegal to say “Polish Concentration/Extermination Camps.” They must be referred to as “German Concentration/Extermination Camps.” (Even the camps which are located inside the Polish borders.)

In March 1933, the first concentration camp, Dachau, opened outside of Munich, Germany. Nazi officials established more than 44,000 incarceration sites during the time of the Third Reich. There were 23 main concentration camps and six extermination camps.

Upon entering the Auschwitz facility, you follow a hallway that is designed to replicate the path into the gas chamber. It is brightly lit and plain, but the most significant part of the experience is hearing the names of the victims read through the speakers. I tried to go in without expectation but was surprised to find beauty and serenity. Despite the horrors of its history, Auschwitz/Birkenau has become a profound monument to remember both victims and survivors. There is a strong sense of somber reverence, but it is peaceful, too. Forty kilometers of land surround Auschwitz, known as “The Zone of Interest,” which looks and sounds exactly as it is depicted in the movie of the same name. The section known as “Canada” was destroyed by the Nazis before the camp’s liberation. We also learned that Auschwitz was the only camp that used tattoos for prisoner identification. The punishment segment of Auschwitz was particularly horrifying. There were three types of cells: Standing (3 people), Dark (30 people), and Starvation. St. Maximilian Kolbe lasted two weeks in the starvation cell. He was murdered by an injection of carbolic acid into his heart. The courtyard between the two cell blocks was also used for torture and murder. There were more than 5,000 people who died on “The Death Wall.” In one display, there is a pile of almost two tons of hair shaved from more than 40,000 people. The hair was sold to German companies to make raw materials and felt. This display was overwhelming for me, and I had to leave early.

Birkenau was particularly shocking just by the sheer size of the place. It is 54 square miles or 345+ acres. The original barns were built to house 50 horses but contained 400-700 prisoners. There were 300 barracks in total. The Germans blew up the crematoria in January 1945 (to hide the evidence), but traces remain. When operating, each gas chamber could kill 2,000 people in 20 minutes. There were 7,000 prisoners liberated, and more than 2,000 died immediately after. The prisoners spoke 23 different languages, and they are remembered with a monument that includes this saying in each language: “Forever let this place be a cry of despair and a warning to humanity where the Nazis murdered about one and a half million men, women and children, mainly Jews from various countries of Europe.”

Members of the Sonderkommandos were Jewish prisoners who were forced to perform a variety of duties in the camp. One of these jobs was that of “Scheiss Commando,” literally “Shit Commando.” They were responsible for cleaning the toilets at Birkenau. Our tour guide explained that this was one of the best jobs in the camp. The Sheiss Commando was warm in the winter and out of the sun in the summer. They were allowed additional bathing privileges and could use the toilet whenever they wanted. Also, the German Nazis were germaphobes. They kept far away from this group of prisoners to avoid contamination. (And thus spared the members from additional brutality.

We attended a traditional Jewish dinner with Klezmer Folklore music and dancing in the evening. Raisins are typical Jewish food. Leroy does not care for raisins, so we’ll celebrate his birthday later in the week.

Day 6 - 4/10/24 - Wednesday

Kraków, Poland

Olomouc, Czechia

Transfer to Prague

The Hilton Prague Hotel

I was afraid I wouldn't have anything exciting to write tonight because it was a transfer day. We left Kraków and traveled to Prague, Czech Republic, by motorcoach. It was a perfect day to travel due to the change in the weather. (It was much cooler and a little rainy.) It was a long bus ride, but the countryside was beautiful. It was primarily agricultural land with rolling hills. (My favorite.) Leroy even spotted deer several times. We made a brief stop in Olomouc, Czechia, for lunch.

Once we arrived in Prague, we said goodbye to our tour guide (Pavel) and bus driver (Sharka) and met our new crew. We took a brief tour of the places around our hotel. I overheard someone ask the guide for a recommendation for a good steakhouse. He told the couple he had a favorite spot and guaranteed it would be the best steak they had ever eaten. I knew Leroy would be all over that idea, so I asked for the recommendation, too. He sent us to LaVie.

The tiny restaurant is family-owned, with only three people doing all the work. We were seated in the kitchen and could watch all of the action. They raise the beef cattle themselves and cook only dry-aged meat. They even had one of those cool cabinets where you can choose your meat. Leroy and Curtis were in heaven.

Upon the chef's recommendation, we ordered a Tomahawk and Filet Mignon. We watched him cut and cook the beef to absolute perfection. The meat was served with sautéed vegetables and four dipping sauces: pepper, mushroom, beef and honey. (Yes, honey.) Dessert was a fried pancake with warm fruit, topped with caramel sauce. It was delicious.

We shared an Uber to the hotel with the other couple who ate with us. We hit it off immediately, and she recommended and offered to take our photo. (And I'm sure glad she did.)

Day 7 - 4/11/24 - Thursday

Prague, Czech Republic

The Hilton Prague Hotel

Tour – Panoramic Prague

Tour – Prague by Night

We continue getting prayer requests as we travel, which are pretty humbling. It has been a privilege to intercede for friends and family. Prague is full of old churches, but many are now concert halls and music venues. The Czech Republic is the least religious country in Europe—about 20% Catholic, 5% other and 75% atheist or agnostic. Many churches charge an entrance fee to go inside, and very few Masses are scheduled. But they hold the record ratio of people to dogs, 5 to 1, so the news is not all bad.

Our hotel is in the “New Town," built in the 14th century. We started the day with a tour of Prague Castle in "Old Town," built in the 9th century. This castle complex is the largest in Europe. We saw the outside of the St. Vitus Cathedral, which took over 1,000 years to complete. I tried to take a photograph in the Basilica of St. George (built in 930) but was kicked out because I didn’t have a ticket. We then crossed the famous St. Charles' Bridge to go into Old Town near the Astronomical Clock. The buildings and architecture are stunning. Almost everything in Prague is named after a King Charles (there were many.) But the best fun fact is that the father of Charles IV was Good King Wenceslaus (of Christmas carol fame), born in Prague.

We then left the tour group to walk to The Church of Our Lady Victorious, which is under major renovation, but we could still go inside and see The Infant Jesus of Prague. This church is another primary Catholic pilgrimage site. The interior was beautiful, but the exterior is undergoing renovation.

Another rest in the afternoon. Leroy went back to the pool while I wrote. We met Curtis and Linda for dinner at the hotel and headed out for the "Prague by Night" tour. It wasn't dark yet, so we didn't get to see the vista view with lights, but the lights were beautiful as we drove and walked around in the "Lesser" (as in smaller) city.

Day 8 - 4/12/24 - Friday

Děčín, Czech Republic

Tour – Jewish Prague

Transfer to Ship – Viking Beyla

Today is the last day in Prague. We visited the Jewish Quarter in town and walked through three synagogues and several museums. There is a rich Jewish history in this town, but all of it is darkened by the anti-semitism that has existed here for centuries. There are memorials for World War II everywhere, but there are also new, temporary reminders of the current conflict in Gaza. They have photographs of the current Israeli hostages and victims attached to the wall in the district. It is quite profound.

One of the synagogs has all of its walls covered with the names of victims of the Holocaust, and the names are audibly read continuously. Another museum that we visited displayed artwork from children in the Terezín Concentration camp, where most of the Jews from Prague were transferred. There are memorials set into the sidewalk marking the homes of Jews who lost their lives in The Shoah (the Hebrew word for catastrophe.)

There is also a monument to Franz Kafka, born in this section of Prague to a middle-class Jewish family.

“He who seeks does not find, but he who does not seek will be found. So long as you have food in your mouth, you have solved all questions for the time being. You do not need to leave your room. Remain sitting at your table and listen. A book must be the axe for the frozen sea within us.” - Franz Kafka

On our tour last night, we walked by many foreign embassies with their flags out front. We didn’t know many of them, but I knew who would. I took pictures and sent them to Sierra to show Jameson. He didn’t have to consult his map: Ukraine, Estonia and Belgium. When Sierra asked where Estonia was, he said right next to Latvia and corrected her pronunciation. That kid is going places.

In the afternoon, we transferred from Prague to Decin (still in the Czech Republic) to board the boat. It should have taken about 90 minutes, but it took almost two hours. There is a lot of traffic in this area of the country. (Just like at home.)

We were so excited to finally board our ship, the Viking Beyla, sailing on the Elba River. We were shown our room and invited for snacks and cocktails before the welcome meeting and dinner. We’re all unpacked and ready to begin the next adventure.

Day 9 - 4/13/24 - Saturday

Bad Schandau, Germany

Saxon Switzerland, Germany

Viking Beyla

Tour – The Bastei

Today's adventure found us docked at Bad Schandau, a small spa village on the River Elbe. After breakfast (the best Eggs Benedict I've ever eaten), we took a 30-minute motor-coach ride to The Bastei, a National Park in Germany. It was magnificent. We took a short hike to the historic bridge, which offers many panoramic views.

After lunch and a safety muster, we continued down the Elbe towards Dresden, Germany, where we will dock tonight.

We've become very attached to our British friends, Stuart and Deb. We've been sitting together during meals and excursions. They are so much fun. Stuart is an excellent storyteller; we've heard manyof these last few days. We still haven't sat down for our afternoon tea, but they did encourage me to try the Marmite at breakfast. (We think it's similar to Vegemite.) Yuck. I don't need to try it again.

This ship is designed for 98 passengers, but only 81 of us are on board for this trip. There is a crew of 31 who come from 11 different countries. There is one couple that is quite irritating. (The wife in particular.) We've taken to making fun of each other when we get stuck next to them in line or in a conversation. I guess there's always one in every group, right? The key to life is to ensure you're not the irritating one in every group!

After lunch, I napped while Leroy enjoyed the sun on the top deck, watching the countryside pass by. I finished some writing and enjoyed a few FaceTime calls with the kids. I interrogated my British buddy some more about the royal family. We agreed The Princess Royal (Anne) is a badass. He said, "She's just like her dad." And everyone loves Sophie.

After dinner, we took a stroll through Dresden's city center. (Just a short walk away from our boat.) I've learned much about this historic city in the past year and look forward to tomorrow's tour. Allied bombers virtually decimated the city during the war, with the English bombing at night and the US bombing during the day. Our new friend's father was in the RAF and a part of that controversial bombing raid. Every time we talk about this bombing, Stuart points in his wife’s direction and says, “Deb’s dad.”

Day 10 - 4/14/24 - Sunday

Dresden, Germany

Viking Beyla

Tour – Panoramic Dresden

We began the day with another panoramic bus tour of beautiful Dresden, but I could not stay awake. I started dozing off in the first 10 minutes of a three-hour tour. Leroy feared I would begin to snore, so we bailed on the rest of the tour. (I only remember the tour guide telling us that milk chocolate was created first in Dresen in 1838 and contained donkey’s milk.) So when we made our first stop in the city center, we told our tour director we were leaving and set off on our own with Curtis and Linda. We only missed a museum tour that houses an extensive jewelry collection.

There is a magnificent church in the city center called Die Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady) in the center of the square. The call to worship bells rang as we approached, and we realized that Mass was beginning. It has been difficult to find Catholic Masses since we left Poland. We found one scheduled in Polish at a different location, but it seemed our timing couldn’t have been better to be in the right place at the right time. We walked in, and we were blown away by the beauty inside. We waited patiently for the service to begin and even lit a candle for our (and your) prayer intentions. We were counting our blessings that the Holy Spirit had inspired us to get off the bus at that time and at that location. A trumpet accompanied the organ for the opening hymn, and I got chills. It was awesome.

The Holy Spirit has a tremendous sense of humor because it didn’t take long to realize some significant differences once Mass started. Everyone looked at us funny when we genuflected as we entered the pew. There was no sign of the cross, no kneelers, and the “priest” was not wearing vestments. And once we started paying attention, we realized there was no crucifix. Yes, you guessed it. The Church of Our Lady in Dresden, Germany, is now a Lutheran Church. (I thought it was ironic there was a giant statue of Martin Luther nearby, but I guess the joke was on me.) Come on, how many Lutheran churches in the US are called The Church of Our Lady? It seems odd to go from the most religious country in Europe (Poland) to the least religious country (the Czech Republic) to the primarily Lutheran country (Germany), thanks to Martin Luther.

It is hard to believe that this city was flattened in World War II. They have done an exceptional job of reconstructing the landmarks in their architectural form. They’ve even aged the stone to look like it’s ancient. I genuinely admire the commitment to rebuild instead of replace. It seems at home, we would build another Starbucks. Since Dresden was considered Europe’s capital of art and culture before World War II, many luxury homes surround the city. It is very green, with lush parks, beautiful bike paths, and gardens. Curtis took an e-bike excursion this afternoon and loved it.

After lunch, Leroy went for a walk while I napped. Later, we joined Stuart and Deb in the lounge for more stories and laughter. We’ve become quite popular, with many singles asking to sit with us. We’re the fun table, to be sure.

I have been receiving lots of kind feedback on these posts and emails. Thank you all for following along. It made the trip memorable. It’s easy to keep writing when you know someone is enjoying the content. Trying to gather, process and write my thoughts each night has become a cathartic practice.

I have had a few questions come up along the way.

1.     What’s the weather? BEAUTIFUL! I mean, really beautiful. It is unseasonably warm here after a mild winter, so everything is blooming too. I’ve never seen more beautiful daffodils, tulips, lilacs (more about those later) and cherry blossoms. The only rain we encountered was during the transfer from Warsaw to Krakow, and we were safe, warm and dry on the bus.

2.    What are the people like? We have been fortunate to be surrounded by great people. Our travel group is mainly made up of Americans. (Actually, I’ve only met Americans and one British couple.) Everyone has been great, except the irritating couple I told you about yesterday.

3.    The guides and staff at Viking have been extraordinary! It’s incredible how knowledgeable they are about the area and its history. Well, most of them. I have disagreed with them a few times, but no one is surprised by this revelation.

4.    The locals are unique in each location we visit. I thought the Poles in Warsaw were a little shy and even avoiding. They rarely made eye contact and seemed intimidated. But the Poles in Kraków were different. They didn’t pay much attention to us at all. They were much more relaxed and engaging. Prague was too full of tourists to evaluate. The staff of the hotel and restaurants were kind, but I guess they have to be. We just got to Germany, so I don’t have an opinion yet, but I will tell you that I found the Frankfurt Airport staff incredibly intimidating. I’m unsure if I told the story, but the police officer berated a young (early teen) child for taking a photo. Of course, the harshness of their language doesn’t help.

5.    How is the food? We haven’t had a bad meal, but there are some we’ve enjoyed more than others. We’ve only been in Germany for one day, and I can already tell you this is my least favorite. But there is always something to eat, and the food at the hotels and on the ship has been excellent. I am finding it extremely difficult to find cookies. There are many bakeries and sweet shops in each country, but no cookies. (And everyone knows how much I like my cookies!)

Day 11 - 4/15/24 - Monday

Travel from Dresden to Meissen, Germany

Viking Beyla

Meissen Walking Tour

We deviated from the schedule a bit this morning and went off on our own instead of joining the tour of the porcelain factory. It was raining when we docked in Meissen (after leaving Dresden two hours before), but it cleared up, and the sun came out to make it a glorious day.

We walked into Messien (after traveling down the Elbe River from Dresden) and wandered around a bit. We found a lovely paper/stationery store that sold fountain pens. I aimed to purchase a German fountain pen while I was here, and Leroy bought me two. The store owner spoke no English, but we figured it out with the help of Google Translate. This store even carried fountain pens for children learning to write. (Fountain pens are still used to teach cursive in schools.)

We climbed the hill to Albrectsburg Castle and toured the Meissen Cathedral. It was originally a Catholic Church, and building began in 1250 but wasn't completed until 1410. The diocese was dissolved, and the church was converted to a Protestant church in 1581. Getting to the top of the hill by stairs was a hike, but coming down in the glass elevator was a treat.

I participated in my first "Afternoon Tea" with my British buddies. There were tea sandwiches, scones, macarons, clotted cream and apricot preserves. But the highlight was learning how to make and drink a proper cup of tea. (Milk first, then tea.) Our British friends pointed out the differences between their rituals at home and what we were doing. They also explained the different protocols for the various regions of the United Kingdom. (The Brits are a bit territorial.)

Speaking of the British, I've caught myself speaking and writing in a British accent for the last few days. We've been conversing a lot, and their accent is rubbing off on me. I've kept a list of some of my favorite sayings, including (but not limited to) "Blot yer copy book." (which means you've done a bad thing or made a wrong impression.) Or "Tara A Bit," which means goodbye for now. If I'm not careful, no one will understand what I say when I return home.

In the afternoon, we docked in Torgau, Germany, and Leroy went on the walking tour with the cruise director, Kieron. He visited Castle Hartenfels (including the Torgua Bears that live where the mote used to be.) He also saw the monument commemorating the location where Ukrainian and American soldiers met up on April 5, 1945.

Once again, dinner was delicious, but the best part was the company and conversation. They set a seventh place at our table for our friend Jessica from LA. We listened to more of Stuart's stories and teased him incessantly. We asked for a photo of our table, and our waitress, Vanda (from Fatima, Portugal), included herself.

Day 12 - 4/16/24 - Tuesday

Wittenberg, Germany

Viking Beyla

Wittenberg Walking Tour

Today was all about the Protestant Reformation. Wittenberg is where Martin Luther famously nailed his "95 Theses" to the church door. A fire destroyed the original door in 1760, but the bronze-covered door (pictured below) replaced it and displays the theses in Latin. The church, now Lutheran All Saints' Church, was built on the palace grounds of the duke around 1340. It was (of course) originally a Catholic church, which has been stripped down but still contains the original confessionals. Martin Luther is buried near the front altar.

Our tour guide explained that Martin was originally a Catholic monk who later married a former Catholic nun. One in our group asked if that was a common practice in the 1500s. He obviously hadn't been paying attention. Our guide wasn't the best person to describe Catholic theology or biblical scenes. In a painting, she named Paul as one of the disciples with Jesus at The Last Supper. (He wasn’t there.) In another painting, she said, "In this image, Abraham was going to kill his son Isaac but killed a sheep instead." Maybe something got lost in the translation, but there's more to the story. I'm pretty sure Martin Luther would agree.

We disembark from the ship tomorrow morning, so we've begun the process of our goodbyes to the staff and passengers we've met along the way. I'm trying to talk Stuart into starting a YouTube channel with me called "Ask Stuart," or "Stuart in Steerage," where Americans can submit their questions about the UK, British people and British life, and Stuart will answer them on video. I think it would be a smashing hit. I'd do anything to hear him talk. He loves to talk and is a great storyteller. We will make it happen. We've created a lifelong friendship during this adventure. They have helped make this trip unforgettable.

Day 13 - 4/17/24 - Wednesday

Wittenberg, Germany

Disembark Ship – Transfer to InterContinental Hotel Berlin

Potsdam Walk and Sanssouci Palace

Today, we disembarked the ship and traveled to Potsdam, Brandenburg, Germany. This is the location of the 1945 Potsdam Conference, where Joseph Stalin, Winston Churchill and Harry Truman met to negotiate the end of World War II. The palace (built in an English Tudor style) is named Cecilienhof Castle and was the home of the Kingdom of Prussia and the German Empire until the end of World War I. The buildings were impressive, but the scenery was even better.

We spent some time in Potsdam’s city center and visited Sts. Peter and Paul Catholic Church. The church, completed in 1870, was quite different from the others we’ve seen on this trip. We ate lunch, and Leroy purchased a Weihnachtspyramide (German Christmas Pyramid) for me at one of the local shops.

We then traveled to Sanssouci Palace, built in 1745 as a summer home for King Frederick the Great. It was designed to rival Versailles but is much smaller in size. The name means "without worries" or "carefree," and its purpose was for relaxation, not a seat of power.

We then drove into Berlin via Glienicker Brücke, also known to us in the US as the "Bridge of Spies." This bridge was the border between West Berlin and East Germany and was used to exchange captured spies. I highly recommend it if you haven’t seen the movie by the same name (starring Tom Hanks).

After checking into the hotel, we walked down the street to explore a little and discovered the ruins of an old church in the middle of the street. It is the Kaiser-Wilhelm Evangelical Church. It was built in the 1890s but was severely damaged in a bombing raid in 1943. They've built a new, modern church next door, but it was so ugly that I didn't even take pictures. You'd think we'd make more beautiful things with modern technology and skills, but we haven't. We lit several candles for prayers along the way today. (Even in this ugly church.)

For dinner, we enjoyed the best Chinese food I’ve ever eaten.

Day 14 - 4/18/24 - Thursday

Berlin, Germany

InterContinental Hotel Berlin

Tour – Panoramic Berlin

Tour – Berlin by Night

Today is our last full day of tours, and we packed in as much as possible. We took a bus tour through the city and saw many historical places, including Check Point Charlie, the Reichstag Building, Brandenburg Gate and a remnant of the Berlin Wall. We even passed near the location of Hitler's bunker and his suicide. It has a small marker, but is now a nondescript gravel parking lot.

While on the road, our tour guide took us past the memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. We didn't stop, but it was pretty impressive from the street. We asked to be dropped off there after the tour to see more of it. Our British friends, Deb and Stuart, joined us. We walked all around the memorial and even toured the documentation center below. There are no words or photographs to describe this memorial accurately. It is a haunting image to see from the outside, but to walk through it is even more remarkable. The vast blocks look like tombs in a cemetery, but the actual floor level changes, so you are several feet below the tops in many places. When people walk in, it is as if they disappear, which is one of the intentional design elements. There are so many significant elements of this memorial that I cannot describe them all in this blog post. However, perhaps the most impressive thing is that the German citizens paid for it. Our guide pointed out, where else can you find a memorial built by the perpetrator?

We had lunch with Stuart and Deb and said our sad goodbyes. They have been a big part of our experience on this trip, and we won't soon forget them. Well, we won't forget for sure because Stuart and I will be starting a YouTube channel. Stay tuned for more details.

After a brief rest at the hotel, we set out for the Jüdisches Museum Berlin. I was expecting a Jewish history museum, but it was primarily dedicated to modern art and the Jewish lifestyle. One striking statistic stood out. It would take six years, seven months and 27 days to read the names and life stories of all 6 million victims of the Nazi regime.

In the evening, we went on our last guided tour of "Berlin at Night." We started with a traditional German dinner and headed to the Berliner Fernsehturm (a.k.a. The TV Tower) to see the lights. We also made short stops at the Brandenburg Gate and the Reichstag Building for more photos. Once back at the hotel, we said goodbyes to our new friends, Curtis and Linda.

Day 15 - 4/19/24 - Friday

FROM: BERLIN, GERMANY (BER)

TO: MUNICH, GERMANY (MUC)

Airline Booking# 4KIQMJ

LUFTHANSA

LH 1929

Apr 19, 2024

8:50 AM - 10:00 AM (1h 10m)

FROM: MUNICH, GERMANY (MUC)

TO: SAN FRANCISCO, CA (SFO)

Airline Booking# E39DSL

UNITED AIRLINES

UA 195

Apr 19, 2024

11:45 AM - 2:30 PM (11h 45m)

The morning came way too early, but getting up to pack and get ready to go home was easy. We talked to both kids via FaceTime before leaving for the airport.

As a big fan of the movie “Goodfellas,” it is no surprise that I was thrilled to fly on Lufthansa Airlines. We took a big United plane to Frankfurt, but the connecting flights in Germany were on Lufthansa.

The worst thing about traveling is the traveling. We had reasonably smooth flights to Poland, but this one has been bumpy. I was “pulled aside for additional security” not once but twice. I even had to remove all the food in my purse and carry-on, and if you know me, you’ll know I had a lot of snacks (chocolate) stuffed into every available pocket. And I’ve already written about the German airport staff. Not the friendliest in the world. Then, it was almost a sprint to make our connection in Munich.

Once on the plane, we were informed that a fuel pump wasn’t working, so it was a 90-minute delay. (At least we didn’t have to change planes.) So, a 10+ hour plane ride got a little additional time. We did have a seatmate this time, a German guy in his mid-40s. Right after he sat down (by the window), he apologized and asked to get up again to get his jacket out of his bag in the overhead. He said, “I am whimpy German man,” and those were the only words he said for the next 11 hours.

As I write this last post, we are stuck in the Friday afternoon traffic from the Bay Area. We might have to stop and get a coffee to stay awake. It was 21 hours ago when we got dressed to leave for the airport. We’re tired, but it sure is good to be home. e.